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Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Summer Camp Part - 3 Making of the Jackfruit Jam

This one was a summer camp learning the process of making the annual jackfruit jam at Ananthpur.

These were carefree times spent at my paternal grandpa's palatial house. No lessons to read. No handwriting pages of Hindi, English and Telugu. Except the morning ritual of reading out aloud 'The Hindu' newspaper to my grandpa there was nothing but fun in the day ahead.

The morning would be a hot cup of the best filter coffee with fresh cow's milk delivered at the door step early each morning. Then reading the daily newspaper. Then having a bath, praying and an errand boy would carry a big parcel of our breakfast of hot idlis and the fluffiest of vadas as breakfast from a nearby vegetarian hotel - I think an Udipi hotel. Grandma would add a dollop of fresh butter onto the hot steaming idlis and laddle out some coconut chutney and delicious sambar and a vadai or two onto our plates. That would be filling and would keep us away from hunger until 1pm lunch time.

I have memories of wandering around in the backyard which had huge drumstick trees and a huge well around which many trees surrounded and reflect their green leaves in the water below. The well would be covered with a locked iron grill plate so that we kids would not accidentally fall into it anytime.

The kitchen's door would be connected to the backyard so I would go in and out of the kitchen into the backyard often.

Evenings would be fun as there would be car or bus rides as all new vehicles would be test driven by someone from the company. In the absence of long drives, it would be to the theatre to see the latest movie, mostly Telugu movies. During the Dasera it would be a ride in the family owned private tonga to the houses of many even if it were for showing off the thanga kaas malai, or some rare manga necklace or my new pattu pavadai or a diamond raakudi or to sing a few songs at someone's house out of habit and not out of passion or interest! I was hardly 9 or 10 then. I wonder how Ananthpur now looks like these days! There would be a relative called Rajappa who would be kind and smiling, who would take us out on those test drives of vehicles. What fun such trips to Ananthpur during summers would be.

As Bangalore is quite near Ananthpur, we would get many exotic vegetables and fruits right at our doorstep. Also grandpa had a good motor parts and motor sales outlet right on the main road facing the main bus stand, cars going to Bangalore would bring loads of vegetables and fruits on their return.

Whatever be the seasonal fruits or vegetables would be enjoyed by all of us.
Jackfruits were aplenty here. Grandma would ask the errand boy to cut open the big jackfruits and deseed the fruits inside. It would be so absorbing to watch how the fruit would be plucked out from a maze of wiry mess inside the thorny outer cover of the jack.

Many pieces would be heaped into a big vessel to be washed and cleaned of all the natural glue which the fruit is famous for. The errand boy would dip freely into a plate of oil kept beside him to grease and ease his hands of the messy glue, not to speak of the sharp knife he would handle with great ease even while it kept slipping away from his oily hands now and then.

Granny would sit at the grinding stone to make a fine pulp of the fruit. The pulp would then be measured. A similar measure of broken-down jaggery would be made into a thick syrup which would be filtered of all impurities. The jackfruit pulp would then be added to this syrup for further cooking. This mixture is piously stirred patiently for a long time, until it becomes a very thick semi-solid paste like a jam. The quantity would be really huge as it was an annual preparation. Huge quantities of clarified butter or ghee would be added and stirred for some more time. The aroma would fill the entire house but the kids would be kept away from the hot jam as it retains high heat for a very long time.
This gooey mixture is allowed to cool off really well until the next morning perhaps. Clean and dry glass or ceramic jars would be used to store it for the year long use in making sweet jackfruit based preparations like payasams, pradamans, etc.

This jam is called as 'chakka varratti' from which 'chakka pradaman' and other delicious items are made. This is basically a preserve which lasts an year depending on qauntities used on occassions.

For special guests payasam using this jam would be made becuase this fruit is very seasonal in nature. The jam is too sweet and aromatic to be true. The taste makes us eat more than we can digest leading to stomach upsets often. Therefore, good quantities of dried ginger powder is used while preparing the payasam, etc. Some add it to the jam itself. Dry ginger is an effective digestive.

This jam is a great accompaniment for adai (which is spread like a dosa but has more variety of lentils which are ground alongwith rice to a batter consistency).

Again there is a special tiffin made using this jam alongwith ground raw rice, patted into roundels and steamed on banana leaves which is called 'elai adai'. This is a tasty tiffin using this jackfruit jam as the main base.

This was an all purpose preserve of jackfruit while in season. Later during festivals and special occassions a portion of the jam would go into making many interesting dishes mentioned above. All mouth-watering.

From Ananthpur I watched the process of making annual items like the jackfruit jam which I can never forget. I dont make it for the entire year. I make it fresh and consume it within a couple of months and in small quantities. Nevertheless the family enjoys such special treats which I love making for them. The jackfruit jam is a favourite among all members of my family.

Cheers!
Mahalakshmi.

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